Thanks for your help, so just to clarify, R should stick out into the cap. This would make sense from health and safety in case the cap is removed whilst still plugged in. The exposed end would not be live.
Yes, that is how it’s installed.
@chris5, what value did you get for the P20?
6.3A for uk
I have the Stellar P3, what value of orange fuse should I get, 2A or 2.5A slo blo?
Well, I’m not that impressed with my orange fuse in my P20. I’m tempted to put the original one back.
With the R in the cap the bass sound is thicker, but much less dynamic and less punchy. The treble has a dirty sound, a bit like mild flutter from old cassettes due to the thicker bass I think. Swapping the fuse around the treble is good but there is much reduced mid and bass and sound is thin.
Edit: to be fair, this morning it does not sound as bad (still not an improvement though) so it may just be burn-in blues after 4 day (100 hrs)
When I got three last year I put them all in at the same time. It did not sound good at all. After a couple days they sounded better, but then the system sound bad again. I remembered it took a few weeks for them to break in and stabilize.
You might experience a period of good and bad sound so you should wait a couple more weeks to “hear” if there’s improvement.
chris 5…both the orange and blue fuses require about 300 hours of
burn in time to perform their best…until then the sq will vary all
over the road just like country mountain switcback roads until you
arrive at your destination…
At 100 hours you are scarcely there…
Hang in there be patient it will pan out and you will be glad
Speaking from having been there and done that a lot…
Thanks Dave, I just hope I have the thing in the right way around
Hi Chris…the best way to know which is the better of the 2 possibilities for a fuse…
is which way gives you the best detail, dimensional spatial retrieval along with dynamics.
One way will be muted while the other more aha alive…your ears will essily
define that for you…
Hang in there
Well the other way around sounds more alive, but it sounds soo thin I can’t listen to it for more than 3 minutes
Thin sound is part of the burn in switchback country road…
with a back and forth change from wow to jeepers, now what…
Don’t give up …stay with it …patience is key
Thanks David, I have now switched the fuse back so S is in the fuse cap, which is counter to what Serbian was suggesting.
@jamesh , could you kindly please confirm one of the following for a fuse in a P20.
A. The live end of the fuse holder is never in the cap.
B. The live end of the fuse holder is sometimes in the cap.
C. The live end of the fuse holder is always in the cap
The current flows from the back to the front. If one way is almost unlistenable, I’d absolutely switch it, even if it’s not the direction they’re recommending.
If after an honest burn in time the Oranges still not to
you liking the give the HiFi Tuning Supreme 3s a go.
The Supreme3s with gold plated silver yield a fuller bodied
warmer soundstage with very good detail…
Ah, so if current goes from back to front, then the S (source) should be in the cap, which is how I now have it after Dave’s advice a few days back.
The fuse is definitely sounding much better now. The detail improvement is not subtle is it? Very impressive.
chris5 thanks for your follow up…if the Oranges sound quality flips
back to ugh again…keep on keep on burning ( I call it sauteeing the orange)
The Orange fuses will arrive at a place where they wont be so persnickety…
and remain constant…
Should I use 2A or 2.5A for the Stellar P3?
2A slo blow for 120V.
I may not have this right but the Supreme combines the warmth of the HFT Gold with the detail of their SilverStar.